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2/10/04 MK Today is a travel day; we love travel days. The difference between today and the travel days we love is that today we are traveling from New York to San Francisco. We’re going home.
According to our itinerary we should be exploring Southeast Asia. The lost city of Angkor Wat, the jungles of Vietnam, or possibly the worlds least populated nation, Laos, but it was not to be. I would be lying if I didn’t say we are both horribly disappointed to be on our way home. Unfortunately, my back simply refused to go on.
To catch you up since my last entry, as I mentioned we were headed to New York to deal with the ruptured disc in my back. Surgery seemed likely, and on January 27th I had an operation called Laminectomy/Discectomy. It’s actually a fairly common procedure, as far as surgery goes, but the spine is a scary place to have someone poking around. I’m told the operation went well and I should be cleared to continue our trip in 2 to 6 months. Yes, we intend to complete our trip. There is the possibility of paring it back somewhat, but having had only a small taste we're more anxious than ever to visit far off places like Nepal & Tibet. For me, seeing the Himalayas is a must. Patagonia, the Amazon, Bolivia, Machu Picchu, Antarctica…they’re all musts.
As they say, in all gray clouds there is a silver lining. Our silver lining has been spending the last couple of weeks in New York with our family. They let us take over their homes and pampered us every day. They’re the best and in case we haven’t thanked them enough, THANK YOU, WE LOVE YOU!!
While speaking of family, I would like to take a minute to verbally spank Kim and Steve Walsh. Having met us in Thailand for Christmas and New Years, they were to be our first guest journal entrants. Since they didn't get around to writing while traveling, they promised to email me their entry as soon as returning home. That was January 5th and it is now February10th. Helloooooooooo. Anybody out there? Enough said…consider yourselves spanked.
Guest Entry! 3/11/04 David Fried (Lisa's brother, aka my bro in-law) On March 11, 2004, only 3 short days after Lisa's 37th birthday, I flew to San Francisco to visit the newlyweds during their unscheduled respite in the states. Lisa met me at SFO in her desert sand Volkswagon Cabriolet, dented and unwashed (the car, not Lisa). It was great to see her after so many months and she presented tan, toned and very very giddy. Had I not grown up with her I would have suspected mood enhancers, but, alas, I knew better. This giggling, arms flailing, tongue out side of mouth (head out window) singing out of tune (though some will tell you she has a beautiful singing voice) genuinely excited 37 year-old-child is, quintessential, Lisa. It was good to see her again.
The drive thru the city to their home was memorable less for the traffic or even the views, but more for the memories of the few years I spent in SF. Upon arrival to their home, Lisa double parked and explained this would later become an issue with MK, which later it did. For those who have seen their place, you know it is immaculate and beautiful. Never mind I learned they spent all day cleaning and hanging pictures for my arrival. The home is awesome. Michael, though deliberate, seemed to amble around pretty well and looked no worse for the wear. He was recovering from his surgery and remained in high spirits all weekend displaying unique dexterity and efficiency loosening, tightening and removing his brace. I think even he has to admit that his girdle cut a dashing silhouette and did wonders for his figure. Michael expressed his determination to heal slowly and completely. We discussed the frustration he was feeling having to remain sedentary for so long, but both agreed that a short time of tedium will be worth his remaining lifetime of extremism. It felt good to be with them in their city, in their home.
Over the next four days, the three of us shared many stories, caught up on big, little and even meaningless details of our lives and wandered around the city's restaurants, bars and music venues. We took an easy hike one day and stopped at a robust fruit stand en route to the trail head where we filled up on four days of backwoods supplies including organic fig bars and kumquats. All were eated by the time we came off the trail a couple of hours later. Interestingly, the place we went for drinks that evening featured kumquat martinis. Coincidence?
It was also good to see the dynamic duos friend's throughout the weekend, some of whom I met earlier, though I am forbidden to discuss any of that because I met these folks over Michael's bachelor party weekend after which we all entered into some kind of gag order, the terms of which I am still unclear over. Of note, however, evenings out with Michael, and friends, confirmed a long standing suspicion of mine about San Francisco: it is truly the land of the cool shirts and indeed, neither Michael nor his friends disappointed, donning exotic fabric shirts of amazing technicolor and plummage. Before we left, Michael took me to a secret location where such shirts flourished. I was able to procure one for myself and since have attained celebrity status here in Atlanta.
One highlight of the weekend was definitely riding from the city's Sam's Cafe in Tiburon, over the Golden Gate Bridge. Always pushing herself to the brink of her abilities, Lisa had recently picked up road riding. I borrowed Michael's bike and Lisa and I met good friends, Lisa and David (no, I am not making this up). All were geared to the hilt and Michael was to meet us at Sam's for drinks later with his truck. The day was perfect and the ride unstrenuous but for the traffic. Views were outstanding and Lisa demonstrated her uncanny ability to learn the skills necessary for serious climbing. You see, she was having some timing issues switching to lower gears prior to hills. Considering hill climbing is an essential skill for riding in SF, she was interested in some tips. I explained in painstaking elaborate detail the following fundamental technique for hill climbing on her road bike: switch to a lower gear BEFORE the hill. With an earnest look of true understanding, Lisa nodded and faced the road, quite literally daring a hill to get in her way. The road met her challenge and about 3-4 minutes later, when out of nowhere, there appeared before us a short steep rise. Lucky for the road we were in a parking lot. Lucky for the road there were no cars about. Lucky for the road it was solid asphalt . For no sooner had Lisa faced the hill, when she forgot her lesson, failed to change gears and slowly ground to a halt. In slow motion, it seemed, I watched as Lisa unsuccessfully attempted to to clip out of her pedals. I quickened my pace and caught up to her, just as the leaning tower of Lisa toppled. I was able to break her fall somewhat, but not before she took a little road in her knee and arm. Partially by luck and predominantly dues to her unbreakable spirit, Lisa was fine. A little wiser but road tested. We completed the journey to Sam's without further incident. The day was beautiful. Michael met us at Sam's and we all enjoyed the sunset, the drive back to SF, dinner and drinks at home a dip in the hot tub, listening to Widespread Panic and Hot Tuna.
I bid Lucy and Desi adios and headed back to ATL after a relaxing and energizing weekend. Lisa was diagnosed with A-Fib days later, and as with all things in her life, has faced this challenge with strength, composure and intelligence. Though my wife, Della, and I originally planned to hike Machu Piccu with these staunch explorers, our schedules were jammed due to the delay. We are optimistic about meeting them somewhere equally incredible for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure sometime this winter.
Thank you Lisa and Michael for your hospitality, your generosity and most of all, your friendship.
Good Luck.
6/2/04 MK It's been four months of recuperation, physical therapy and very little else. Basically, it's been tedium and monotony with occasional trips to self-loathing and anger. Yes, that's very mello-dramatic, but four months of zero activity is pure hell for me. Our amazing dream of 1 year of travel turned to #$%@ and it pissed me off. To make matters worse, while home, my beautiful bride was diagnosed with atrial fibrillation. A-Fib is a heart condition causing irregular heartbeats. It affect more than 2.2 million people in the USA. It's not life threatening, but it is something that needs to be dealt with. Thankfully there is a procedure called pulmonary vein isolation that has a tremendous success rate with very little associated risk. The doctor says Lisa is an excellent candidate. He also said we should finish our trip and that there is no additional risk for her to wait until we return for the procedure.
That said, I am happy to report that we are returning to the road on June 27th. The tickets have been purchased and the first stops are Peru and Ecuador. Yes, we are very excited to get on with our lives and this particular life experience.
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